From Norderney we left very early about 5.45 as it is quite a long haul to Cuxhaven. The wind had dropped so the sea was less rough as we went out. On the way in we had breaking waves which were not pleasant but now it was much calmer as we motored into the rising sun which was low in the sky & made our life more difficult. We motored for several hours until crossing the mouth of the River Weser where there were a lot of moored ships. We didn’t work that out straight away as some were moving & some not! Anyway we picked our way through & the breeze picked up so we had a good sail to Cuxhaven, arriving early in the afternoon. Our early start meant we had strong tide with us as we approached the Elbe and it runs fast so we picked up time.
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| Giving way on our approach to the Elbe |
Cuxhaven is quite a large commercial port but the town was surprisingly pleasant & we managed to find the chandlers for some engine oil, a Kartuschen Pistole & an ice cream! We ate on board and had an early night as next day was the Canal!
The run up the Elbe to the canal meant leaving about 1.00pm as the very strong tide would have been against us any earlier. There was a strong breeze from astern and with only the Genny we flew along surfing on the big waves. The Elbe estuary is huge, big tides and large ships, quite a handful but we rolled & slithered about for the 12+ miles up the river. The VHF was hugely busy with big ship movements but eventually we were able to radio the lock for an allocation. 2 small yachts entered a huge big ship lock and we were lifted the few inches needed to put us in the Canal. Apart from very low mooring pontoons (just large bulks of timber floating in the lock) it was a non event.
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| Brunsbuttel entrance to Kiel Canal - notice low pontoons |
The transformation through the lock was unbelievable. From a rough, windy turbulent estuary of what looked like liquid mud we moved into a calm, serene environment with smooth water & green trees. We shared the canal with large ships that moved steadily past us in convoy of about 3/5 at a time. It was an eerie feeling as these large shapes appeared with apparently no one on board and slid along sucking the water away from the canal edge as they moved through. Interspersed were yachts following the edges & going in each direction. The Canal was surprisingly beautiful as we had been without any green trees & grass etc for several days. At regular intervals small car ferries cross over. They have a small inlet to park in so they don’t obstruct the big ships moving up & down the canal and seem to dart out with their cargo of cars whenever it is clear. They reminded me of spiders hiding away & dodging out to catch their lunch!
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| "Spider" car ferry, Kiel Canal |
Because we started late we were not able to complete the 97km transit in one day & yachts have to leave the canal during official hours of darkness. We stopped after about 40k at Gieselau siding with a collection of other yachts. There were no facilities so we ate on board. Frankie went for a walk along the tow path after a rain shower and was swarmed by a flock of Swallows who seemed curious about her presence and flew very close. It was extremely peaceful & reminded me of the days of my youth (yes I was young once) when we stayed on our little boat on the River Soar under the trees & against the river bank.
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| Gieselau siding |
Then on to Kiel. Through another huge lock with a very chatty lockmeister who had spent time in Scotland and wanted to tell me all about it. About a mile beyond the lock we found the British Kiel Yacht Club, also known as Kiel Training Centre (armed forces). They were very welcoming and we stayed for 3 nights. It was our first experience of box mooring so we learned the hard way with ropes that were too short and had to rush about tying them together. A box mooring is going end on to a pontoon with 2 posts a short way out that you have to lasso on the way in. Not easy when it is blowing but most moorings seem to be sheltered so we are getting better at the technique. We are not alone in struggling with the new technology & have met Derek & Julie Roberts who have a Warrior 40 (same size as Elixir but not so quick) & we are cruising in company.
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| Derek & Julie Roberts |
In Kiel we also met Horst & Janet Safarovic. She was Brit/NZ & he German. Very jolly people who like their beer. They befriended both us & the Roberts & took us out for the day on their Moody 38 to see the sights of Kiel (sailing) week. It was a real carnival a lot of classic yachts & square riggers, yacht racing, steamers, cruise ships etc. The sun was shining, not much breeze for the racers but a good way to relax & drink some Weisbeer (cloudy lager made from wheat). I don’t like lager much but the UK supply has run out so this is the next best thing before resorting to Stella which I am trying to avoid (Chris). We returned to the Club & with an expert crew managed to park the boat easily in the box. Out came the rum punch and we ended the day with Pizza on the picnic table.
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| Horst & Janet Safarovic |
BKYC were very helpful & their sail maker, Manfred, mended my stackpack which had a small tear following the heavy seas off Norderney & in the Elbe. He has done a good job for E30 including some spare material if I have to repair it again. Cheaper than at home & very good service as well. Having done our repairs and cleaned house we decided to have an extra day to see the town of Kiel. Kiel has everything from C&A to Woolworths, we don’t know how as we thought they had both gone bust but all is well in Germany. I now have new sandals and some smart shorts as Frankie thought my old blue ones were too faded and showing their age after many years of salt water. Kiel was good we strolled with the Roberts went on a big wheel ride to see the sights high up had pork kebab on a stick & ice cream so very relaxing. The weather seems to have turned at last & we are making more use of suntan cream than oilskins so that is also very welcome.
Having thanked our hosts & paid our E18 per night marina fee we moved on to Heiligenhafen as recommended by Horst & Janet. Not much wind so motored most of the way, not a long haul as we left about 10.30 & arrived by 5.00. Next we had a day stay over in H as we had been told that Lubeck was worth a visit, which proved correct. Lubeck has lots of history & was a Hanseatic town.
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| Lubeck day trip |
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| Ancient clock in Lubeck Cathedral |
We wondered the streets saw the sights & Cathedrals. Travelled by bus & train, again with Derek & Julie. Didn’t get too lost & managed to speak to the locals.
By this time I was getting a bit shaggy so found a Turkish barber who gave me a quite decent haircut, including eyebrows, ears & nose!! For just E9. He even singed the furry bits round my neck & ears with a long taper much to Frankie’s amusement as she watched the whole performance.
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| Turkisk barber's shop, Lubeck |
To our surprise the train going out was very late as we had thought they would all run like clockwork but seemingly this is no longer the case. I had also hoped to pump out my holding tank which has got blocked again but their sh** sucker pump wasn’t working either. So much for German efficiency.
Next day on to Warnemunde. Lots of sun & a great sail with cruising chute up most of the way. Got told off by the Warden (river police) for having my motoring cone up when sailing. I am told they are very strict on these little matters as there is not much for them to do these days. I thought about just putting my engine on but then decided they might think I was being a smart ass so I just smiled back & took it down.
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| Elixir under spinnaker |
We arrived at W early evening into a huge marina, still box moorings but more room & much easier. D&J followed soon after & we were soon settled with a couple of beers & chatter about the days sailing.
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| Hohe Dune marina, Warnemunde, Rostock |
Next morning I decided I had done quite well with the red wine and all were a bit fragile. W is the holiday resort for Rostock. Rostock had been E Germany & was flattened during the war. (We now say that the old buildings were removed courtesy of Mr B Harris). Although some of the central square is interesting as is the odd Cathedral it is not an inspiring town with large areas of square dull blocks of flats typical of what we imagined E Germany to be like. Again we used our skill with trains & trams this time to get around Rostock. A few hours was enough & we headed back to W which is much nicer. Did the food & drink shopping & invited D&J aboard for Paella which was enjoyed by all.
The marina is a modern complex & on Sunday we found the hotel bar in which to see England soundly defeated much to the great enjoyment of our hosts. Time to drown my sorrows methinks.
MAP for chapter 2
